Large Atrium Shopping List

Introduction

This shipping list helps put together the items necessary to complete the set-up for the Large Clearside Atrium cage. The screen and breeder versions of the Large Atrium are almost identical, though the screen version would have some misting abatement items to keep the home walls dry.

It is very difficult to account for every situation so there is not a one shopping list that will cover all situations. This shopping list is for following along in creating a Large Clearside Atrium on a five foot wide baker’s rack. There are cases in lighting where I have included a second option for if you are using a method that does not allow you to have a shelf above the cage to rest your lights. If you are getting the rack or have a way to suspend lights about six inches above the cage then stick with option 1. This is the preferred method.

Large Atrium Cage

This images shows a Dragon Strand Large Clearside Atrium enclosure.


Chameleon Cage

The Large Clearside Atrium is a high end cage that is meant to be a functional showpiece. It will provide an excellent home for your chameleon and, at the same time, look good sitting in your living room.

This cage includes Dragon Ledges and two Hydration Mounts that will allow mounting mist nozzles anywhere along the inside of the top frame.

The Drip Easy Drainage Tray must be ordered separately as the boxes are too big to bundle together.

The Large Atrium comes in three versions: All screen, three clear sides, and three opaque white sides. For the purposes of our demonstration I have chosen the Clearside version as that is the most appropriate for indoors. The clearsides have the enormous benefits that they hold the mist inside the cage and keep it from spraying outside onto walls and furniture. It also allows the creation of humidity pockets with plants and being able to see your chameleon without looking through screen is a big plus. The clear material used is a special durable film that is able to be stretched taut and provide a clear panel without the weight of glass.

Here are the main uses for the different cages types:

Screen: Outdoors use and indoors with no issues with overspray

Clearside: Indoors and prominent visibility placement (such as living room)

Breeder: Advanced naturalistic and bioactive. Though this can be done with any of the cages, the PVC sides and back with the Dragon Ledges provides strong anchors for the mounting of substantial backgrounds

Of course, the product pages will have more information. You may reference the Atrium series landing page here: Dragon Strand Atrium Series Enclosures.

Large Atrium Cage

Large Clearside Atrium System

Large Atrium Drainage Tray

Large Atrium Drip Easy


Lighting

The most cost effective way to get a great deal of light on the scene is with multiple powerful light bulbs. T5 linear fluorescent bulbs do this job well. For this cage set up I will be using the full four 6500K daylight bulbs and my UVB bulb will be the Arcadia 6% in a single bulb reflector. This increases the UVB strength dramatically, but since I will be using a rack to hold the cage I have control over the distance the UVB bulb will be from the perching branch. This is the power of having a UVB meter and that optional expense is well worth it.

The cage is 45″ wide, so I will use 48″ wide fixtures.

There two options presented here and which one you select depends on whether you are resting the light fixtures directly on the top of the cage or if they will be suspended above the cage. In my example I am using a 5′ wide wire shelving unit which allows me to place the top shelf 4-6″ above the cage. Being able to put all the lighting up 6″ is a superior approach as it allows the intense energy coming off of the UVB to dissipate to reasonable levels before entering into the chameleon’s living space. But a second option is provided if you are resting the light fixtures on the top of the cage.


Lighting Option 1: Lighting is suspended above cage

If the lighting fixtures are able to be suspended 6″ above the cage we will use a quad T5 fixture filled with 6500K daylight bulbs. This will provide a great amount of light. The UVB bulb can now be in a single bulb reflector which will drastically increase its effectiveness and give you the freedom to adjust its height to optimize the UVB gradient. I am also recommending a fixture that is less wide as the cage so that the UVB is mostly in the open area of the cage. It should be placed to line up with the right edge of the Large Atrium cage. (The right side would be the open area for the Clearside version).

On this list is

  1. A 48″ Fixture with 6500K Daylight bulbs already installed
  2. A 36″ wide single bulb reflector with an Arcadia 39W, 34″ 12% UVB bulb.

Lighting Option 2: Lighting fixtures rest on cage top

If the light fixture will rest on the cage top we’ll take the UVB and put it into that quad light fixture. Being in a multi bulb fixture will reduce how much of the UVB energy gets directed at the chameleon. The thing to watch for is your chameleon crawling upside down and exposing its belly to the UVB light. At the cage top, the UVB will be unnaturally high. It will lose energy quickly, but the cage top is essentially at the surface of the UVB bulb and that is an intense place to be! The fixture will come with four 6500K bulbs already. Replace the edge slot that shines down on the middle of the cage with your UVB bulb.

On this list is

  1. A 48″ Fixture with 6500K Daylight bulbs and one 12% UVB already installed

48″ Quad T5 HO Bulb Fixture. Includes 6500K Daylight bulbs

12% UVB Single Reflector

36″ Single bulb reflector with 12% UVB bulb

48″ Quad T5 HO Bulb Fixture. Includes 6500K Daylight bulbs

Arcadia 46" 12% T5 UVB bulb

Arcadia 46″ 54W, T5 HO 12% UVB bulb


Basking

Creating a warm spot for basking is most easily accomplished by use of an incandescent bulb shining down on one corner of the cage. It is also the most dangerous item in our entire set-up. The basking bulb is our fire risk and we must take extreme caution when setting it up. It is critical to take the following very seriously:

  1. Verify that the lamp reflector is rated for the wattage bulb you use. This wattage limit will be printed on the reflector. Do NOT exceed this limit.
  2. Make sure that the basking lamp is firmly anchored on a surface that will not allow it to fall. The basking lamp must be able to take a child bumping into the cage, any other pet activity (such as cat jumping), or natural events such as earthquakes.

Reflector: The clamp lamp suggested here has a dimmer switch integrated. While a dimmer switch is not mandatory it is a useful tool for us to be able to dial in the temperature to what we want. This can be useful as seasonal variations may require less or more heat to be shown into the chameleon cage. Lamps are commonly placed on the top of the cage screen. I will show how to do this, but the final system will have the bulb raised above the cage for a much better heat spot generation. This is what the rack system does for us.

Bulb: Incandescent bulbs are more and more difficult to find as LED technology is much more efficient. But the waste heat is exactly what we want! So we are having to rely more on specialty reptile bulbs.

As with the daylight and UVB fixture, there are two options. The heat bulb has the same characteristic that the temperatures are the bulb surface are blisteringly high and our useful range is further downstream. Raising the bulb six inches above the cage allows for using a larger wattage bulb and having the effective temperature range being in a larger part of the heat cone coming off the bulb.

If you have the basking bulb suspended then get the 150W bulb. If it is on the cage top then you can get the 75W or just use the dimmer wheel of the fixture to dial down he heat until it is comfortable to the back of your hand for one minute at the cage top. I highly recommend  finding a way to safely suspend the heat bulb above the cage 4-6″. There is no way, even with lower wattages to have a bulb that can heat a chameleon on their basking branch six inches down and not grievously burn them if they walk upside down across the cage screen top under the light. Chameleons do not seem to have a good enough sense as to what a burn is to avoid putting themselves into dangerous situations like this.

The bulb presented here is a bulb created for the reptile industry that has certain daylight components to it. But because we take care of the daylight with out T5 6500K bulbs, the heat is all that is absolutely necessary. For this, any incandescent bulb would be sufficient. I am advising the Exo-Terra Sun-Glo bulbs because I have used them extensively and like the performance.

Reflector to be used with either option

Option 1: Lighting is suspended above cage

Option 2: Lighting rests on top of cage

Exo Terra Sun Glo 75W

Misting

Both the Mist King and Cli-Mist misting systems are effective. You do not have to worry about the mist nozzle mounting wedge as the Large Atrium comes with two Hydration Mounts. If you would like to take advantage of both mounts then you can order another misting nozzle from Cli-Mist or Mist King. When ordering another mister make sure that you get one with the “T” connector on top so you can daisy chain the mist nozzles.

For both Mist King and Cli-Mist you will be required to provide your own water reservoir. The Misting company instructions direct to have the water reservoir above the pump, but, in my system, I will be placing the reservoir below the pump. I have been doing this for many years without issue, but I do have to warn you that I am going to be showing something that is “breaking the rules”. After seeing how I do it, you will have to make your own judgement as to how you will install the system.

You will have to select a reservoir. For this build I am using three 3 Gallon jugs. I usually use 5 gallon jugs, but only the 3 gallon jug will fit in the space on the rack under the cage. If you plan on having the water jug to the side of the cage and not on the rack then I would purchase the 5 gallon jugs. I would suggest buying at least two or three and switching them out. This keeps a constant change of containers and the ability to clean them out. I actually have eight of these so I always have water and they double as emergency water backup in case I need it for any disaster. Because of this I maintain a constantly rotating supply of water which has worked very well for me.

Note: you will want to use RO or distilled water with your misting system. I have found many drinking water suppliers have water that will not clog the mist heads. I take my 3 & 5 gallon jugs to the drinking water place and fill them all up.

Recommended System:

1 * Cli-Mist Cyclone System

1 * Double Mist Head Mister

2 * 3 Gallon Water Jug

The Mist King is just as good if the Cli-Mist is not in inventory.

Cli-Mist Cyclone Misting
Cli-Mist double mist head

Additional double misting nozzle

3 gallon Water Jug

5 Gallon Water Jug

Mist King Starter Kit

Alternative misting system

Mist King Double Mist Head

Hydration Strategies

Foggers and drippers combine with a misting system to form a complete hydration strategy.

This ultrasonic humidifier, or “fogger”, can be filled from the top and has a dual tube output which is why I like using this model. You will want a timer dedicated to the fogger so you can have it complement, but not be dependent on the mister timing cycles.

The dripper is your hydration test. By running the dripper during the day you can make sure that the chameleon is hydrated. If the chameleon drinks from the dripper then the other parts of your hydration strategy need to be stepped up. Your goal is for the chameleon to be fully hydrated without using the dripper.

Scheduling: Lighting, Misting, Fogging

Hydration Schedule

In setting up my timers I am replicating the above lighting/hydration cycle.

Midnight: all items are off

1AM: Misting system turns on for 45 seconds to create a moisture layer to help fogger “stick” instead of just bouncing off dry leaves

1AM – 7AM: Fogger runs for a 30 minute on/off schedule until 7AM. The frequency and length will be dialed in as I evaluate the need for more or less humidity during the night.

6:45AM: Mister comes on for 1 minute to throw down a layer of dew for the chameleons to wake up to.

7:00 AM Daylight and UVB bulb comes on

7:30 AM Heat Lamp comes on

10:.30AM Heat Lamp goes off – this off time is dependent on what the ambient temperatures will reach during the day. The colder it is the longer the heat lamp is kept on.

3PM: Optional dripper or hand mister session. Here is where I personally observe their behavior and response to water. Ideally, they ignore it. Otherwise I have to adjust my hydration cycle. This is a constant process and will never be completed.

7PM: All lights go out

8PM: 45 second misting to start the night off moist.

Optional Lighting Accessories

Solarmeter 6.5 UVB Meter: One of the most valuable tools that is in the optional section is the Solarmeter 6.5 for measuring UVB. This is the only way to reliably determine your UV Index level. For years, the older model the Solarmeter 6.2 was used, but hold out for the  6.5. The 6.5 measures the exact frequencies that chameleons use to convert into vitamin D3 while the 6.2 is a much wider range and measures into ranges that are not helpful.

Optional Stands To Rest Cage

I use a wire rack that is 60″ wide x 24″ deep x 72″ high.  Building out this cage on a wire rack allows me to have a shelf above the cage to place lights and a space below the cage to keep a water reservoir.  Wire accessory baskets are available to be able to hold the fogger and plants to make for a nice appearance.

Recommended: 60″W x 24″D x 72″H Wire Rack

Wire shelving basket accessory

Plants

You will find that we start off with live plants. There are many advantages to live plants and these are significant enough that we will be including tutorials on keeping plants alive. We will bypass artificial vines and plants all together.

Using the Dragon Ledges included with this cage,  plants may be mounted along the sides of the cage. The most effective implementation of this is the double pot method where a 1 gallon landscaping pot is zip tied to the branch support structure and then an identical 1 gallon landscaping pot with the plant in it is slid in the mounted pot. This allows easy mounting of the pot and easy removal of the plant in case it needs to be refreshed or replaced. To use the strategy, buy two pots for each plant. 1 gallon pots are the most versatile, but smaller pots may be used for accent plants. When using the grid support structure described when we start putting the cages together, you can support up to three 1 gallon pots along the side of the cage with Dragon Ledges.

Black landscaping pot

Miscellaneous & Building Tools & Household Supplies

Every home will have a different level of tools. To be thorough I will list below everything you will need to complete this project. You probably have much of this already! But, at the very least, this will let you know what you have to dig through the drawers to find! But for the new chameleon owner that has just moved into their first apartment after college and is starting from scratch – here is your comprehensive buying list!